One bike. One ride. 65 miles through ephemeral timelines
Basalt, in Western Civilization historical terms, began life in 1890 as a railroad town, specifically the crossroads of two different railroads and a crucial link between two very important mining towns, Aspen and Leadville. But, of course, it has so much more relevance than that.
Our ride blends the past with the future, the pavement with the trail, the woods with the towns, done on a bicycle that is the latest craze, but also strongly resembles what riders from 136 years ago were seen tootling around on.
Today’s gravel bike looks an awful lot like a bike from 1890, with a couple of exceptions- now the frames are typically made out of carbon fiber rather than steel, have multiple gears instead of just one, weigh less and, thankfully, have much better brakes. The bike of not quite two centuries ago created the design of two prominent triangles and a fork, handlebars (with slightly different curves), and a comfortable saddle made out of leather and springs (instead of foam or 3D technology), along with an attachment to keep the rider’s feet from flying off the pedals.
After much experimentation, the 1890s set the standard for wheel and tire size: 32 spokes attaching the hub to the 700mm diameter rim that hold pneumatic tires, usually 43mm wide. Fast forward 136 years and the gravel bike you are taking for a ride has 28 spokes attached to a 700mm rim with tubeless tires that are 45mm wide. 4 spokes and 2mm of tire, that’s how far we have come.
Okay, enough of the historical context, let’s go on a ride through the backroads and history of our truly magical valley.
While wide tires gave excellent cushion to the rough and tumble world of 1890, today we enjoy luxuries like pavement and dedicated bike paths as we head east on the old railroad beds toward the stomping ground of one of Aspen’s legendary characters. Gonzo journalism burst onto the world stage from the typewriter of Hunter S. Thompson in the 70’s and 80’s in our first stop, Woody Creek, known now for its iconic destination – the Woody Creek Tavern.
From here, we discover why gravel bikes rekindled the wide tire wisdom as we wander toward the early 20th century logging town of Lenado, leaving the pavement behind, discovering the dirt roads and then singletrack, embracing the world of underbiking.
Up and over the Tinpot Trail and into the heart of silver and snow. Mining dominated Aspen’s birth for a relatively short period of 30 years before the true white treasure was discovered in 1946, launching a gradual but uninterrupted period of prosperity still thriving today. Skiing and the culture that surrounds it are what blossomed from the mining roots, providing a launchpad for generations of adventurers.
Grateful for advancements in tire tread and disc brakes, today’s bike brings us down the dusty historical hills, returning to the pavement, before leading us back out into the wilds. Feel the difference in trail building technique as we ascend Sky Mountain Park, overlooking a small piece of real estate that, combined with the contemporary highway system of the 20th century, brings this valley into the modern era. Our small airport is responsible for 50,000 flights per year, 80% of them private jets. While the permanent residents of Aspen have dwindled from the 12,000 in 1890, today's visitor numbers continue to grow.
The 60s brought the world environmental awareness, the first moon landing, and Snowmass Ski Resort tucked away neatly. We revisit the paved trails and roads to crest the new developments amid the mountain splendor, for a dirty descent into another “secret” valley. Snowmass Creek and Old Snowmass were the quiet homes of famous people in the 80s and 90s. Residents for nearly 40 years now, we pass by Michael Eisner’s home first, John Denver’s Windstar and then climb the final hill past Kurt and Goldie’s ranch. They came here to live quiet lives, far away from the fame, blending in with the landscape and ranchers to be normal pieces of the community.
The dirt comes again at the top, but it is the perfect kind of dirt, the kind your 45mm tires love most of all- mag chloride treated gravel. Go for it! See if you can make it across the flats and up the hill without shifting to your easiest gear; it’ll be hard, a big ask at this point, but dig deep for it. The planet needs this kind of effort- one given without hesitation, draining the last drops of your humanity and strength, because we are all worthy.
As we splash out onto the valley floor again, make sure to appreciate how the countryside changes yet again. Here we are in the growing zone; fruit trees and cows dot the fields. Fresh to the scene are two women owned businesses, embracing regenerative growing practices not only for market goers but also for the local restaurant scene and food pantries, in a novel arrangement with Pitkin County. Two Roots farm is going into its 10th year and expanding fluidly as the needs exist to be met. Marigold Livestock Company is newer, with an eye to the dirt first and what lives on top of it second. Nowhere will you find more delicious vegetables or a better tasting turkey than here, and the multi-layered soil bodes extremely well for the future.
There’s one more small hill before Willits. Keep your thoughts focused, your eyes open, and your soul grounded; there’s no point in making it hurt. Enjoy the bucolic feel and the old brick farm house at the corner, ease back into civilization with the kids and dogs romping around. The place we live now can be perfect too, just like what the miners tried to find and establish. The old is giving way to the new as we approach the core. Most of the farms and ranches have become homesites while this area transforms into the most populous in the valley. Centrally located, the majority of the “town” is less than 25 years old, filled with all the stores and lofts that modern convenience allows for remote work and life lived locally.
Don’t think the ties to the past have been forgotten because the years have passed and memories are fickle; just ask the Willits sisters in our 1895 photograph at the top. No doubt Irene and Marcia, along with the rest of the riders of the 1890s, finished their ride with a celebratory beverage, as should you. You both earned it.
Cheers
